The salad you want on a cold October evening has warm lentils, browned squash and a dressing with some nerve. Give it enough mustard and vinegar to cut through the sweetness, then eat it from your favourite shallow bowl.
There's room for bread alongside it, and for a second helping. This is an especially good dinner when you've come home with a butternut squash and absolutely no desire to make another pot of soup.
The lentils should still look like lentils
Whole green or black lentils belong here. They hold their shape, which is why Harvard's Nutrition Source recommends them for salads; red split lentils soften into a texture better suited to soup. For three to four portions, start with a cup of dry green lentils, rinsed and checked for small stones. Simmer in plenty of water, following the packet's timing. Whole lentils generally take about 20 to 30 minutes, though tasting one tells you more than the clock.
Drain them when they're tender with a little bite left. You want separate lentils that tumble from the spoon. Harvard lists lentils as a source of protein and fibre, which is plenty of nutritional credit for one ingredient. The reason to cook them tonight is their earthy flavour under a bright dressing.
Squash earns its place at the edges
Peel and deseed about a pound of butternut squash, then cut it into roughly three-quarter-inch cubes. Toss with a tablespoon of olive oil and a pinch of salt. Spread it across a baking sheet with space between the pieces; a crowded tray makes it harder to get those browned corners.
Roast at 400°F for about 25 to 35 minutes, turning once, until the squash is tender and taking on colour. Ovens and squash vary, so check with a fork. You're looking for pieces soft enough to eat happily, still firm enough to survive being folded through the lentils. Those caramel-coloured edges are the pleasure of the bowl.
The dressing needs a little nerve
Whisk a tablespoon of Dijon mustard with two tablespoons of red-wine vinegar and three tablespoons of olive oil. Add black pepper, then taste before adding salt: mustard brings some of its own. The dressing should taste brisk on its own. Squash brings enough sweetness that you can leave the honey in the cupboard.
Fold most of the dressing through the drained, still-warm lentils. Add the squash gently, followed by a generous handful of chopped flat-leaf parsley. Taste a spoonful with both lentils and squash before adding the remaining dressing. If you fancy cheese, a little crumbled feta adds a salty edge. It's equally lovely without.
Tomorrow’s lunch deserves the same attention
Serve it warm tonight, with bread for the dressing left in the bowl. Keep a little parsley aside if you're planning lunch from the leftovers; fresh leaves and a small splash of vinegar bring the chilled salad back into focus. Pack the bread separately so it keeps its crust.
For storage, follow the USDA's leftover guidance: refrigerate within two hours of cooking, or within one hour if it's above 90°F. Divide the salad into shallow containers rather than leaving a deep bowl on the counter to cool. Keep the fridge at 40°F or below, and eat refrigerated leftovers within three to four days. Tomorrow's lunch can go straight from the fridge to your plate.
